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Posts tagged “Jimbaran

One Fine Morning in Kedonganan Fishing Village, Bali

Teamwork. Pushing the traditional fishing boat after the fishermen of Kedonganan deliver their catch of the day. Photo by: Kristupa Saragih
Teamwork. Pushing the traditional fishing boat after the fishermen of Kedonganan deliver their catch of the day. Photo by: Kristupa Saragih

Teamwork. Pushing the traditional fishing boat after the fishermen of Kedonganan deliver their catch of the day. Photo by: Kristupa Saragih

Bali tak hanya gemerlap lintasan Kuta, Legian, Seminyak, Kerobokan hingga Petitenget. Bukan juga hanya kemewahan hotel, resor dan vila di lintasan Jimbaran, Nusa Dua, Ungasan hingga Uluwatu. Bali pun tak hanya kedamaian alam di Ubud, Kintamani dan Bedugul.

Hanya sepelemparan batu dari Jimbaran terhampar desa nelayan Kedonganan. Desa nelayan sederhana yang diapit Bandara Internasional Ngurah Rai nan sibuk dan restoran-restoran nan romantis di tepi pantai Jimbaran kala malam hari. Fenomena kontras ini sebelah-menyebelah dalam radius tak lebih dari 3 km.

Lelaki-lelaki nelayan melaut di malam hari dan merapat ketika mentari terbit. Sementara para wanita berdagang di pasar ikan tradisional, para lelaki merawat perahu dan memperbaiki jala. Selebihnya, Kedonganan hanya desa kecil yang sepi dan damai.

Tahun 2002, kali pertama saya mengunjungi Kedonganan, para nelayan didominasi orang-orang asal Lombok. Sementara pada kunjungan pada akhir Agustus 2010 ini, terlihat dominasi orang-orang Jawa. Logat Jawa Timur medhok terdengar kental di antara perahu-perahu jukung tradisional yang sandar.

Tapi tak hanya nelayan-nelayan asal Banyuwangi, Jawa Timur, karena terdengar juga logat Jawa ngapak-ngapak khas pantai utara Jawa Tengah di antara mereka. Beberapa perempuan yang berjualan nasi dan minuman hangat mengaku berasal dari Lumajang, kota pegunungan di Jawa Timur bagian selatan.

Secara fotografis, desa nelayan Kedonganan adalah tempat wajib kunjung bagi penyuka foto-foto human interest. Tibalah di sana tak berapa lama setelah matahari terbit, ketika para nelayan merapat. Rekam aktivitas pengangkutan ikan dan perdagangan di pasar ikan tradisional.

Lensa lebar maupun tele sama-sama ampuh untuk dipakai di sini. Jika beruntung mendapat langit biru, filter circular polarizing (CPL) adalah hal wajib. Tapi, menggaris bawahi semua saran fotografi, berlaku santun dan low profile selama di Kedonganan akan mendatangkan kenyamanan dan foto-foto bagus.

Maintenance. Fixing the fishing net during free time after the fishermen of Kedonganan landed their fishing boats and deliver their catch of the day to fish market nearby. Photo by: Kristupa Saragih

Maintenance. Fixing the fishing net during free time after the fishermen of Kedonganan landed their fishing boats and deliver their catch of the day to fish market nearby. Photo by: Kristupa Saragih

Good Business. Fish trading in Kedonganan is mainly held by the ladies, while the rugged gentlemen prefer to take care of the boat and their fishing journey. Photo by: Kristupa Saragih

Good Business. Fish trading in Kedonganan is mainly held by the ladies, while the rugged gentlemen prefer to take care of the boat and their fishing journey. Photo by: Kristupa Saragih

Transporting. From bigger fishing boats to smaller boats then on foot to the fish market of Kedonganan. Photo by: Kristupa Saragih

Transporting. From bigger fishing boats to smaller boats then on foot to the fish market of Kedonganan. Photo by: Kristupa Saragih

Transaction. Kedonganan's traditional fish market is one of important fish market in Bali although there is no offical record of daily total transaction being held here. Photo by: Kristupa Saragih

Transaction. Kedonganan's traditional fish market is one of important fish market in Bali although there is no offical record of daily total transaction being held here. Photo by: Kristupa Saragih

Shopping. Traditional fish market of Kedonganan provides supply to restaurants in nearby Jimbaran area as well as visiting customers. Photo by: Kristupa Saragih

Shopping. Traditional fish market of Kedonganan provides supply to restaurants in nearby Jimbaran area as well as visiting customers. Photo by: Kristupa Saragih

Kids at Play. These children are the future fishermen of their family, who were born and grow up in Kedonganan. Photo by: Kristupa Saragih

Kids at Play. These children are the future fishermen of their family, who were born and grow up in Kedonganan. Photo by: Kristupa Saragih

Bertetangga dengan Desa Kedonganan adalah Desa Kelan. Keduanya masih berada di wilayah administratif Kecamatan Kuta, Badung, Bali tapi Desa Kelan berada di wilayah Kelurahan Tuban. Ujung desa nelayan Kedonganan berakhir di Kelan, yang sebagian besar wilayahnya sudah menjadi milik Angkasa Pura, pengelola Bandara Internasional Ngurah Rai.

Dari Kelan, yang berjarak tak lebih dari 500 meter, terlihat jelas pesawat yang sedang taxi di landas pacu Ngurah Rai. Di sini juga dijumpai beberapa meriam kuno jaman kolonial. Dan di sini pula telah terpancang papan bergambar rencana pengembangan Desa Adat Kelan.

Tak disebutkan nama bangunan megah yang gambarnya terpampang di papan berjudul “Perencanaan Penataan & Pengelolaan Pantai Desa Adat Kelan” itu. Sekiranya bangunan itu berdiri, entah apa yang terjadi dengan desa nelayan Kedonganan. Desa sederhana nan damai ini terlihat kontras dengan bangunan megah itu, jika tak hendak dibilang tak berdaya.

Secara fotografi, tak terlalu penting lantaran hanya fotografer yang kehilangan tempat memotret kehidupan nelayan yang humanis. Tapi secara mata pencaharian, tentu perlu ada yang serius memikirkan kehidupan para nelayan Kedonganan selanjutnya. Kehidupan para pelaut bangsa ini sudah disegani jagat bahari sejak ratusan tahun lalu.

nenek moyangku orang pelaut
gemar mengarung luas samudra
menerjang ombak tiada takut
menempuh badai sudah biasa

angin bertiup layar terkembang
ombak berdebur di tepi pantai
pemuda b’rani bangkit sekarang
ke laut kita beramai-ramai

The Future or The End? In neighbouring village of Kelan, there is a billboard showing the development plan of the area. It looks like more to tourism industry rather than something that supports fishing business. This billboard stands less than 1 km away from Ngurah Rai International Airport of Bali. Photo by: Kristupa Saragih

The Future or The End? In neighbouring village of Kelan, there is a billboard showing the development plan of the area. It looks like more to tourism industry rather than something that supports fishing business. This billboard stands less than 1 km away from Ngurah Rai International Airport of Bali, as taken on Sunday, Aug 29, 2010. Photo by: Kristupa Saragih

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